The Young Gandhi’s Visit to Varanasi: An Account of the Sacred Kashi Vishwanath Temple

“After the ritual was finished, I went to the Kashi Vishwanath temple for darshan, but I was deeply disappointed by what I saw. The approach to the temple was through a narrow, slippery lane, and there was noise everywhere—pilgrims, shopkeepers, and swarming flies.
The atmosphere that should have been peaceful and spiritual was missing. Instead, it felt more like a marketplace.
Inside the temple, the entrance was surrounded by a pile of rotten flowers, and the floor, although made of fine marble, was marred by dirty rupees left by some devotees.
I was hoping for a serene, holy space, but instead, I found a chaotic, noisy environment. The temple authorities should have worked to create a calm, pure atmosphere, but instead, I only found distractions and discomfort.”
Gandhi was deeply disappointed by the state of the temple, feeling that it was not maintained well and lacked the serene environment that should have surrounded such an important place.
Vishwanath Gali: Capturing the Chaos Gandhi Described in 1902

BENARES HOLY COW FLOWERS FAIR (FROM JOURNEY TO INDIA )
The painting “Vishwanath Gali” by Jan Ciągliński, created in 1907 and housed at the National Museum in Warsaw, vividly depicts the scene Mahatma Gandhi described in 1902.
It shows a crowded, narrow street next to the Vishwanath Temple, where devotees are gathered, and some vendors are selling flowers. This painting captures the same issues Gandhi observed during his visit, such as the congested space and the hustle and bustle surrounding the sacred site.
Navigating the Chaos: A Banarasi’s Perspective on Temple Visits
Like many visitors, I have witnessed the challenges around the temples, such as the noisy streets filled with shopkeepers and crowds of people, which create a suffocating atmosphere due to the limited space.
During major religious festivals, when people come to bathe in the Ganges and visit the temples, the situation worsens. Long queues and complicated procedures make the darshan experience tiring and often less spiritual.
The streets around the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and other areas in Varanasi are slippery due to several factors:
Since ancient times, the area adjacent to the Ganges has been regarded as the holiest part of Varanasi. The Ganges river itself is considered sacred in Hinduism, and as a result, a long line of temples has been built in this limited space along its banks.
This historic area of the city has been densely populated for centuries, serving not only as a hub for residents but also attracting devotees and individuals involved in various occupations.
With the constant influx of people, both locals and pilgrims, the narrow streets of Varanasi have always been crowded. The area has evolved organically over time, with its infrastructure and layout shaped by the historical, spiritual, and social dynamics of the city.
These narrow streets, which have been in place for centuries, were not designed to accommodate the large number of visitors and the bustling activities that occur today, which is why they remain crowded and sometimes difficult to navigate.
The tradition of visiting the Vishwanath Temple after a holy bath in the Ganges has been followed for thousands of years. Devotees offer Gangajal (water from the Ganges) and flowers to Lord Shiva during the darshan, a practice deeply rooted in religious customs.
As part of this tradition, many shops lining the narrow lanes near the temple sell flowers and small earthen pots filled with Gangajal. Devotees are required to enter the temple barefoot, and they often leave their shoes at the same shops where they purchase the offerings.
In exchange for this service, the devotees offer money to the shopkeepers, typically based on their will and reverence—there are no set charges for these religious services.
However, the continuous flow of Gangajal and the movement of people carrying it can cause the narrow lanes to become slippery.
As devotees walk through these lanes, water from the Ganges is spilled, contributing to the slippery conditions. This, combined with the high volume of foot traffic, often makes the environment more challenging to navigate, especially for those who are unfamiliar with the area or visiting during peak hours.
From Congestion to Comfort: The Vishwanath Temple Expansion and its Impact on Varanasi
The Government of India’s project to expand the Vishwanath temple has been widely welcomed by people from all walks of life.
This expansion has finally addressed the long-standing issue of congestion, allowing visitors to experience the temple more comfortably while also paving the way for the growth of religious tourism in Varanasi.
For centuries, temples in Varanasi have been a major source of employment, both directly and indirectly, through religious activities and associated services.
Prime Minister Narendra Modi, during the inauguration of the expanded courtyard, highlighted the remarkable increase in space.
The temple courtyard, which previously measured 3,000 square feet, has now been expanded to an impressive 5 lakh square feet.
A new pathway has also been created, connecting the Ganga Ghat to the temple, making it easier for devotees to bathe in the Ganges and visit the Vishwanath Temple for darshan.
Varanasi holds immense significance not only for Hindus but also for Buddhists and Jains. It is home to Sarnath, where Gautam Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment.
Varanasi is also the birthplace of four of Jainism’s twenty-four Tirthankaras. Every year, millions of devotees and tourists from around the world visit Varanasi to experience its spiritual richness.
The expansion of the Vishwanath temple has not only improved the centuries-old tradition of Shiva darshan but also created new opportunities for employment and tourism.
As the number of visitors to the temple rises, Varanasi’s tourism industry is expected to see significant growth, further strengthening the city’s position as a major religious and cultural destination.
Great account of Varanasi times in the older eras with beautiful photographs & the paintings depicting the religious rituals of the holy pilgrimage!Thanks for sharing, sir🌹🙏🏾
Thank you for your excellent post. I write about India and it is very well received. I would be honored if you were able to read my post about the R
about “the River Ganges” and “India – Empire Of The Spirit”. Thank you again for your excellent post! Apologies for the above mishap.
Joanna
naturetails.com
Thank you Nitin ji for this brilliant post. I also used to enter houses to seek darshan in the temples situated inside those houses.
Most of media are biased ones. They serve their own masters without respecting the general feelings of the people. They create their own narratives, as we saw in cases of corona second wave and farmers’ agitation.
thoroughly researched article…enjoyed learning about the insights you have gaine
thnx